Cataanda James
“We have so much inside of us creatively, and a lot of times we don't get the opportunity to bring it out.”
With experience spanning over thirty years, Cataanda James is more than a professional curly hair expert and makeup artist. She’s a pioneer and influencer in the beauty industry, working with a series of global brands and celebrity clientele such as Dior, M∙A∙C, L’Oreal Paris, Carol’s Daughter, Garnier, Nike, Jane Birkin, Kevin Durant, Laila Ali, Cynthia Nixon, and many, many more.
Who’s a creative person who has influenced you?
Ok, it’s got to be Beyoncé. She has always been able to reinvent and recreate herself and do totally unexpected things. She knows that is within her, and that truly inspires me.
I’ve worked in many different aspects of the beauty industry, and a lot of times professionals are told we have to do the one thing we’re great at. Stay in your lane. However, as individuals, we have so much inside of us creatively, and a lot of times we don't get the opportunity to bring it out.
Because of her evolving look, the various shades of blonde and dark hair over the years, her style, her makeup, and now her blending of genres … she inspires me in ways that I never imagined. I mean, decades into a career and she’s now the first Black woman to top Billboard’s country albums chart, how does that even happen when she is new to the country scene?
She's doing it all, she's blowing minds, she's breaking records, and that's what I feel like I put myself in the position to do in the beauty industry.
Is there a haircare trend that the industry should be paying more attention to?
One thing that comes to mind immediately is scalpcare. We've been hearing a lot more about the importance of it, which should not be a trend, it is a staple. Without a clean, healthy scalp, there's no way for your hair to thrive.
When we think of hair, we think of the external part of our hair, the hair that's out of the scalp. The nourishment, the development, starts underneath the scalp with the follicles. If we have product buildup on our scalp, flaky scales, dry skin, or irritation, we need to regularly cleanse and properly treat the scalp in addition to the strands. When the scalp is clean, oxygen is able to get into the hair follicle, which actually helps the hair to thrive.
We've been conditioned to believe we don't always have to shampoo our hair, especially people who have curly and highly textured hair. When we think of shampooing hair, we don't naturally think of the scalp being the foundation, and that's the main part that we should focus on. Stimulating the scalp with the pads of our fingertips cleanses the scalp properly and increases blood circulation to the follicle which helps healthy hair growth.
Aesthetically, the scalp is an easy thing to ignore. When we think of hair, it's all about what we see. No one's really staring at your scalp, right? It’s a huge miss. But I feel one of the reasons brands didn’t address it as a common concern, until now, is that the claims you can make about hair are generally easier than what you can claim about skin. Calling out certain skin concerns and key benefits often cross over into the drug category, and that's a whole other level of regulation and testing, which means more time and money.
What is a city that you always like returning to?
Oh gosh, I never thought I'd say this but…New York City. I am always ready to step away from the day-to-day but when I am away for too long, I miss the movement and the go-getter mentality entrenched in the culture.
I moved to New York in 2014 on a 10-week assignment, and my 10-week assignment turned into eight years. I am motivated by the hustle and bustle. The hustle in particular. It's a place where so many of my dreams were lived. It's a place where people are just doing their own thing. Everything's there. Beauty, fashion, food, it’s a melting pot of people. The energy makes it so hard to describe to others when they have never experienced it. When you step foot there, you feel you can conquer the world.
“I feel like everyone wants to be a celebrity stylist immediately. So it can be difficult to learn business administration and setting yourself up for the future.”
What's a class that you wish cosmetology schools taught?
A full-on business course separate from the cosmetology training. Cosmetologists typically don't get early opportunities to go on a job with a 401k and consistent paychecks. Early in my career, I worked at chain salons, mom-and-pop shops, and high-end salons, so I experienced all sides of being a behind the chair stylist. But the paths are so different now. I feel like everyone wants to be a celebrity stylist immediately. So it can be difficult to learn business administration and setting yourself up for the future.
Saving money for taxes, keeping up with associated fees, building a sustainable financial plan, negotiating rates… the list goes on and on. I mean, what are you going to do if something happens to your wrist, or you get tendonitis and you never put money aside to save for those rainy days?
I've been a business owner since about two years out of cosmetology school, and through many experiences of operating my own business, freelancing, and working as an executive in corporate, I have learned a lot. I think I could show students and aspiring cosmetologists the pros and cons of the business and how to sustain a successful career.
What's your favorite drive?
The Pacific Coast Highway. It's absolutely stunning and beautiful. It’s scenic and breathtaking because the scale of the mountains, valleys, oceans, and flatlands are all right up against each other and you’re sort of winding your way in this little car through all of it. With great music of course.
I imagine every time I do it I need to have a convertible to revel in the glory and take it all in. Your hair is blowing in the wind, you have scenery, God’s artwork, and good music. Once again, you are inspired to conquer the world and your dreams.